Not Far From the Tree's End of Season Party

Mini Cherry Galettes at the Fifth Birthday Party at Not Far From the Tree

For the last six months, I've been involved with an organization called Not Far From the Tree. I've mostly been focused on blogging, communications, and web analytics, and have learned much from a great group of engaged and charming people. Not Far From the Tree is a food security organization intent on making sure that Toronto's hidden fruit bounty doesn't go to waste. In a nutshell (no pun intended), you register your fruit tree with us, and we organize volunteers to pick it, sharing the fruit with the tree owner, the tree pickers, and a food bank or other non-profit.
In our fifth season, the non-profit is having our fifth End of Season party on November 9th. Who doesn't like a party to celebrate local Toronto fruit that is shared with the community?
I've really learned so much about local food, have honed my skills as a pastry cook, and really just had fun! 'Cause what's more fun than seeing the lovely city for all of its invisible fruit potential? It's really incredible how much fruit there is in this city, and sadly, how little of it gets picked.
Click here to read all about it.

A Tale of Two Cities: A Culinary Bucket List For Montreal

I'm back home with the folks this weekend, while has included much talk, a little shopping, and many, many carbs. I really don't think my parents eat anything else! I've introduced them to Greek Yoghurt, a meeting that was met with trepidation and finally begrudging acceptance. Ah, parents!
Being here on what is mostly a family visit has gotten me thinking of my culinary bucket list for a future visit to   Montreal. There is so much in the city that I haven't seen and experienced, despite having lived here for 25 years. So, here we go:

1. Cabane a Sucre (Au Pied du Cochon). I've been to the original restaurant, but who wouldn't want to go sugaring off, fine dining style? Located 45 minutes outside on Montreal and with a prix fixe menu, I'd love to try out Martin Picard's take on a Quebecois classic excursion.
2. Oreilles de Crisse. Quebecois pork rinds translate to Christ's Ears in English, and yes, they are heavenly. A lot of Quebec's culinary traditions are rooted in simpler, rustic foods, and pork and pork products are essential to any omnivore's visit to the province.
3. A Bagel Tour of the Island. With St Viateur being my fave bagel bakery in Montreal, I'm wondering, am I missing out on other, equally exciting bakeries? Doing a tour of the island to taste-test all the different varieties of Montreal bagels would be such a great way to send an afternoon.
4. La Banquise: What would a trip to Montreal be without a taste of the province's unofficial regional dish? La Banquise is located in the Plateau, and open 24 hours! I definitely need to make a pit stop there to try one of their 20 poutine varieties. Nom nom. 

Hmmm, I'm wondering if I should plan another trip for March, when the maple sap is running? What a great way to end the winter!

Leaping the Divide Between Home Cook and Professional

The last few months have been filled with job times two, writing, and the slow, exciting immersion into a new culture. And somewhere along the way, my priorities and thoughts about the future changed. Earthshift. Which is all really incredible, I just wish I could sleep through the night without anxiety over the way my life is changing waking me with a jolt at 3 am. Can I really become a chef? I'm not sure, but I can sure try.

The first interview I went to was at an uber-hip west end establishment. It was a job fair, something that didn't promise much really, but still I took the long slow streetcar into hipster territory, and without any plaid that would allow me to blend in. I get to a closed cafe and see a long wait ahead of me; the job fair had started an hour ago, and there were rows of seated attendees in mild business casual. When putting my name and desired occupation down on the awaiting clipboard, I saw a line of would be bartenders and servers. "Are they even hiring back of house staff?" I wondered.

I was seated near the HR guy, Jeremy, and so could listen in to interviews on the sly. It seemed that the sociology undergrads wanting to work the summer away serving Toronto celebrity royalty (and Johnny Depp, when he's in town) were out in full form. And then I was called.

"You're a pastry chef! Wow. Y'know, pastry, you either love it or hate it, it's like onions versus oranges, which do you want to cook? Most people have a difficult time with pastry." Jeremy talked at a quick clip, and called the female coworker who gave him a coffee (and me, when I left) "darlin'". I was thrown off guard, mostly because I'd never had such a positive reaction to my resume before. I quickly focussed, and started to talk about my work at my current pastry job, interest in back of house, and love for cooking.

We left it with Jeremy giving me the card of the HR manager and pressing me to call in a week. I walked out of the hotel a little confused, a lot exhilarated, and now seriously thinking that I might work at this incredibly cool restaurant. And just like that, I eased into thinking about a new career path. Pastry.

Mulliga-what? Making the Perfect Moolgatunny Soup

This blog is slowly morphing into a record of the Cooking Party meetings, but I'm totally fine with that. For our second session M and I combined sea salt chocolate, the Beach, and mulligatawny soup, and came up with a relaxing and invigorating hangout. Mulligatawny is a soup that is traditionally from the Anglo-Indian population in India, and is like a daal, but with coconut milk added. Here we replaced the milk with 3/4 of a cup of coconut powder, and about a cup of water. We also made it vegetarian with no meat in it. Oh, and it tastes divine the day later; the spices merge and intensify and there's really a depth there that wasn't before.
As for the pronunciation- The Mixmaster really has a laugh at how I pronounce this soup. What can I do when I first learned of it from the TV show Seinfeld? The way you correctly pronounce it is the second way it's written in the title. This is really a recipe to try- quick and easy and inexpensive.
Here's Epicurious' version: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Mulligatawny-Soup-232690

Cooking Parties and Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie recipe

Well, I haven't been writing much about cooking because I've actually been cooking. I've started working as Front of the House (FOH) at a restaurant in a farmer's market. Working in the food industry is so awesome for a foodie that I literally spring out of bed at 5:30 am (!) on market days. I live for it.

Recently I've started to have cooking parties (my name, not the official name) with my friend, M, in efforts to pool food knowledge, hang out, and make meals for the week. What could be better than smelling the scents of vegetarian Shepherd's Pie wafting through the apartment while flicking between Fashion Television and Jamie Oliver's Ministry of Food? Not a whole damn lot, I'll tell ya! After our first session I thought I might come back to this space and encourage others have similar parties with their friends. And coincidentally, our plan is not unlike Oliver's own; to make good food accessible to ourselves, cut down on take out and dinners out, and share knowledge. Hopefully with whiskey martinis the next time we do so. Hmmm....

Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie*

2 packets Yves veggie ground round, chicken flavour

Corn kernels from two cooked ears of corn

4 russet potatoes

one carrot, small dice

one onion, small dice

two cloves garlic, minced

one stalk broccoli, cut into small florets

8 leaves fresh basil, sliced

olive oil

1 tsp thyme

1 tbsp veggie stock powder

salt and pepper to taste

1/3 cup milk

2 tbsp butter

• Cut potatoes in a large dice (peel on) and put in a pot of water, set to boil. Cook until the Potatoes are fork tender. Set aside to cool, and peel when cool.
• Using a large pan, saute onions and garlic in a little olive oil. When translucent add carrots and cook for 3 minutes on medium low, and add broccoli and cook another 3 minutes. Add fake meat, herbs, stock powder, and cook for 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, so the mixture isn't too dry, and mix. Set aside.
• To make the mashed potatoes, mash with milk and butter. Add salt and pepper.
• Using a large glass dish, layer fake meat mixture, corn, and top with mashed potatoes. Place in a 350F oven and bake for about 1/2 an hour, or until golden brown on top.

*The potato section is an estimate, as I wasn't doing it.

Au Revoir, St. Clair West

Moving is Hell.

I've been in my new neighbourhood on the Danforth for about two months, and we're still not unpacked. Boxes, boxes, boxes. Add to that research, work, and other stresses, and we are b.u.s.y.

But, the last time I wrote, I said I'd write about St Clair West, and so here it is.

On to the farewell...

When we think of great eats in this city, we think of the brunch places in Leslieville, or Sri Lankan food in Scarbs, or dim sum in Chinatown. St. Clair West isn't a destination that pops into the mind, and for pete's sake, it's off the Bloor line! But if you happen to find yourself in the neighbourhood and it gets around meal time here are a few options:

1) Mezetta Cafe and Restaurant at 681 st. Clair West- What could be better than middle eastern tapas? Maybe tapas that only costs 2.22$ a dish? Check out Mezzetta on a Monday or a Tuesday for amazing deals. Their chicken cigars are sinful, and a "must try". I'd try and order less than the menu recommends; 3-4 dishes a person is plenty if you're very hungry. Dinner for two including wine and tip comes out to 40$ on one of the reduced price nights.

2) Filippo's Gourmet Pizza at 744 St. Clair West (ph) 416-658-0568- This pizza place is one of the pioneers of gourmet pizza in Toronto, and their pizzas are fresh, the selection of pies is satisfying, and the service is stellar. Be warned that their pizzas are a little on the large size. The prices range from 10-16$, from memory. They have a great patio that is great for a date or intimate dinner.

3) What's better than a farmer's market? Maybe a farmer's market at the Green Barns where the Stop Community Food Centre hosts their Stop Market Cafe every Sat from 9 am to 1 pm and serves delicious, rustic food like a Farmer's Frittata sandwich, fruit Galettes, and Strudels that change with seasonal fruit? You can find out about the Stop here. They are located at 601 Christie, at St. Clair West.

4) Want a quick bite, and are not afraid of large helpings and fusion? Eastern Twist at 505 St. Clair West (At Bathurst) has pan-Asian meets Caribbean foods, and their rotis are a dream. Don't forget the achar, but be warned, it's spicy!

And that's a quick tour of my beloved former 'hood. I could mention that the Goodwill for thrifting and the Joe Fresh for inexpensive clothing deals are must-sees, but that would be out of the scope of a food blog, right?

Nothing says "I Love You" Like Smuggled Cheese From the Netherlands

On this rainy and cold Saturday, I'm wistfully remembering the tasty and bold round of gouda that my younger sister had brought back from Amsterdam several weeks ago. It was a whole wheel of cheese a little bigger than my palm, but such pleasures are meant for sharing, and so I passed one small wedge on to The Mixmaster, and my friend, M.

The cheese is from a maker named Henri Willig, and after the last precious morsel of creamy, peppery, milky goodness had disappeared, I googled them, and found that to my dismay, they ship just about everywhere but Canada. If you're in the Canary Islands, or Hong Kong, you can get Willig yumminess, but sadly we go cheese-less. I paired my gouda with PC 7 Grain Original Flat Bread, a quick grocery store buy. The cracker was lightly salted, and went well with the sharp, pepper taste of the pepper gouda.

Ah, the glories of cheese... In Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island, one of the most intriguing characters to me is that of Ben Gunn, the hapless marooned British man who hasn't "'spoke with a Christian [for] three years'" (Stevenson 79). And what does he ask for when he meets up with the treasure hunters from England? A "'Christian diet'"; he says "'You mightn't happen to have a piece of cheese about you, now? No? Well, many's the long night I've dreamed of cheese" (79). Luckily, the ship's doctor, who is coded in the text as a true gentleman, has a small piece of parmesan in his snuff box, which he gives to Ben Gunn, hoping to save him from the dread fate of "going native" (102). This text, which I'd re-read last fall, highlights the hierarchies of processed versus unprocessed foods, which I've spoken of before. Cheese is civilized and "Christian". Papayas, or even rum (though it is processed, it is linked to the Caribbean), are not. Western society seems to prize food that is removed from it's natural state.

Now to figure out a way to get to Amsterdam to smuggle some Henri Willig cheese back. Not the most likely thing to try to sneak into T.O. from the rather progressive nation...

*****

I'm moving from my beloved St Clair West area to a new neighbourhood. I've been here for over three years and have really come to love the place. If I have time in the middle of all the packing and sorting through stuff, I'm going to try and write a food farewell to this lovely part of town.

Will This Make Me a Better Blogger?

After years working on the sketchiest of computer setups (I even blogged once from a computer lab at school, sigh), I've gotten myself a Macbook. I'm still figuring out how it works, but am excited and re-invigorated to work on artistic and research projects. Finally, a good computer!

What does this have to do with food? Um, not much I guess, except my old, failing Vaio made me dread blog entries. So hopefully they'll be more frequent now. Oh, and I've been looking through pictures and have come across many beautiful food ones that I thought I'd share. Enjoy!

a salami sandwich eaten on a picnic in Rome, Italy, October 2009

pomegranates in a piazza in Rome, Italy, October 2009

rabbit in white wine with olives,Rome, Italy, October 2009

fresh salad, Florence, Italy, October 2009

candy apples, Little Italy, New York City, 2008

Will Travel for Good Food

The intrepid foodie in Toronto (or any city really) knows that in a city with urban sprawl like ours, to say that you're only eating downtown can become a little limiting after a while. If you have the time, access to a vehicle, or are in other parts of the city, it might be worth it to venture out of your comfort zone to have a meal. And if you do really love food, these can become "food adventures," and a way to while away an afternoon or an evening.
I've been told that the best place in Toronto to have dosa (South Indian crepes stuffed with potatoes or other items) is on Lawrence East. I still have to ascertain the exact location from my folks, but why would I think of going to Udupi Palace on Gerrard (or Trinity Bellwoods, *shudder*), as adequate as they are, when there might be something better a little trip away . And I've known for a while that the best places to have dim sum are in North York, Willowdale, and Richmond Hill.
A few weeks ago I was at The Mixmaster's place for a relaxing weekend. Well, relaxing in that we hussled up to Unionville, which took 2 hours each way, to see the Automatistes Revolution exhibit at the Varley Gallery. The Mixmaster was eager to take me to have Gujarati vegetarian thali at Markham and Lawrence afterwards. The place is called Govardhan Thal, it is two block north of Lawrence, and their number is 416-438-0544. For a mere $5.25 we received rice, 5 puris, 4-5 subjies (vegetable dishes), daal, churdi (a savoury, milky, yoghurty dish), and shrikund (a milk-based dessert, on this occasion with dates and pistachios). The memories that were unearthed by the food, memories of my mom's cooking, of trips to Surat, India were bittersweet and healing. And the food was good, and plentiful; the one thali served me for 3 nostalgic meals. If I hadn't opened myself up to moving about the city seeking out new food experiences, I would have missed this quintessential diasporic moment.
So, check out the suburbs, revisit the haunts of your old hood, and pack a magazine or an ipod. Most of the new immigrant communities in Toronto, I feel, live in the suburbs, so supporting these businesspeople is imperative.

Memories of Napoli: Part 1

About half way through my fall trip to Italy, The Mixmaster and I traveled to Napoli (Naples), a small town a few hours away from Rome. We weren't spending much time there, as we were on our way to the Pompeii ruins, but knowing that Napoli has some of the best pizza in Italy, and probably the world, a stop for a pie seemed like an absolute necessity. In Italy, most of the places we went to sold individual pies and not slices; they baked them for you fresh, and often in a wood burning oven. On our first day in Rome, we were amazed to be presented with what would be about the size of a Canadian "small" pizza, per person! But with all the walking, sometimes for 8 hours or more a day, we quickly got used to the increased portions. Italian pizzas are often lighter on the cheese, and it is focalized in the middle of the pie. But one thing that our palates quickly discerned to be the difference between Canadian and Italian pizzas (besides the thin, crispy crust) was the sauce.
Most North American pizzas that I've had, including the fabled New York pizza, seem to use ground tomatoes spiced with herbs for their sauce. The sauces in Italy were tangier, lighter in taste and colour. We soon realized that they were either made from scratch from ripe tomatoes, which don't have the sweet-ish taste of ground tomatoes, or they were made from canned plum tomatoes, pulsed in a blender with herbs. It made a world of a difference.
So, having disembarked from our train, we knew where we wanted to go, Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32, 081-446643), but not how to get there. And the circuitous streets and narrow lanes of Napoli took some getting used to. We finally arrived at our Pizzeria, a little testy with each other, and with our bellies growling. The pizzas at Gino Sorbillo were everything that the guide book said that they might be. There were a multitude of choices, exciting combinations, with prices ranging from 2.50 euros to about 8.00 euros. I had the Pugliese, with capricciosa, pomodoro, mozzarella, olive, prosciutto, funghi, and carciofini for 6 euros. It was as yummy and flavourful (with a smoky taste due to the well cured meats) as my hastily snapped photo suggests.
Oh, and on the walk to your next destination, you might want to pick up some famous fried risotto and cheese balls, at Di Matteo, located on the same street at number 94. They always have a crowd waiting patiently for them, and they are one of the things that Napoli is known for.
So, how does one go from Italian pizza with all it's tastes and textures to Pizza Pizza (note that there's no link...)? In part two of my post, I will detail, with recipes, my attempts at the perfect home pizza (which I made for a recent anniversary with a certain special someone).

Kitchen Appliances, Gadgets, and Doodads- Whatever to Buy?

In honour of the boxing week sales, I thought I'd discuss some of the most common kitchen appliances that people have, and rate them for convenience, etc. Now would be a good time to look around at stores and possibly snap up a deal if you're in the market for some given item.
I should say that I'd grown up in a very well-stocked house when it came to appliances. We had standing mixers, food processors, blenders, a full supply of baking equipment. We also had a very large kitchen in the suburbs of Montreal with plenty of cabinet space, and all the other unidentifiable things that middle class people in the suburbs have- access to big box stores when things are cheaper than in the city, a car to lug the appliance home, and my dad's income.
The average Torontonian on a budget has to think carefully about purchases, especially where kitchen counter space is often at a premium. One thing I've done to keep costs down is shopping at Goodwill for housewares stuff. Check out their website to find out their "half off days," where every item in the store is 50%. Goodwil is a great place to pick up vintage dishes, serving trays, and some small appliances; just be sure to check that they work well before buying. Another way of acquiring a desired item is to, if your friends and family are the types to buy gifts for your birthday, mention that you really need, say a blender, and would appreciate them helping you out. For some people, especially those of us with pain issues, some appliances can ease the strain on one's body, and are definitely worth the investment. So, on with the list:

1. Food processors: Food processors are often among the most expensive of all daily use appliances, and according to some accounts, the most useful. Food processors are similar to blenders, except they also do such things as shred cheeses, slice vegetables, and mix and knead doughs. If you like cooking, but find it sometimes a hassle or difficult to do such things as knead bread, they might be worth a look. You can sometimes find them at Goodwill, and you can find some of the lower end ones at Sears and Canadian Tire for around $50.00 (just be sure that the processor does everything you want it to). The usual price range is $400 to $30 for some of the mini choppers.
2. Blenders: The Mixmaster gave me a blender in the spring, and I love it. Blenders are good for making smoothies, pureeing soups and other sauces, and making such dips as hummus. They can also be used to crush ice for drinks. You can get a good one for around $60.00. One thing to look for is a removable blade for cleaning. While the glass ones are great, they are heavy, and with care, one with a plastic jar should last you a long time. Blenders always need some fluid to work (so when making dips, one would have to put in some oil or water to get the blades moving, for example). Mine is always about to be washed or drying, so it's in regular use.
3. Espresso makers: A frivolous item it would seem, until you take stock of your actual coffee habit. If you're spending $35 or more on outside coffee a month, it might be a good idea to invest in a home machine and a travel mug. Yes, there is a wide range of machine costs, with some of them costing over $1500 (!), but a decent machine can be found for a little over $80. I have a small Delonghi that was a gift from family, and with the proper grind of freshly roasted beans and adequate tamping can make a pretty good espresso at home.
4. Pizza stones: A specialty item, probably only for those who are nostalgic for recent trips to Italy (sigh). I bought mine a few months ago, and I love it. They are currently on sale at Kitchen Stuff Plus in Toronto, going for $10, which is much less than the $20 they used to be a few years ago. Pizza stones should be considered general baking stones; you can bake cookies, scones, and other baked goods on them. They take away the moisture and ensure the crispness of the food. If you like making homemade pizza, you will definitely notice the difference of baking on a stone, and so it might be an item to consider buying.
5. Mandoline slicers: These are tabletop slicers that most often cut vegetables. As with most kitchen gadgets, there are the very expensive, the mid-range, and the crappy. Prices range from $150 to $15, but I would think carefully before spending anything under $30. Make sure that there are rubber grips on the bottom to ensure slip-free slicing, and that the blade is of a good quality. I'm not entirely sold on them; they require careful cleaning, involve repetitive arm movements, and might not end up saving you much in terms of time or body health. But, if you really do a lot of slicing in your food prep, they may be more cost effective than a food processor.
6. Lemon reamers, garlic presses, and mortar and pestles, oh my: These are all items that are relatively inexpensive and are in regular usage in my kitchen. When buying a lemon reamer, I might stay away from the wooden ones, because with time they occasionally get discoloured or retain liquid. I couldn't live without my garlic press; I use it almost daily. I got mine from Ikea for under $7. It saves me a lot of time when it comes to mincing garlic; I simply pop the clove in my press and in two seconds the job is done. And finally, if you do a lot of Indian cooking, a mortar and pestle is an important addition to your kitchen. I use it to grind spices, though it can also be used to pound garlic and ginger for curries. I got mine from Gerrard India Bazaar (around Coxwell and Gerrard) for under $10. Though if you need something specifically for spice grinding and want to save yourself some pounding effort, an inexpensive coffee grinder might be a good option.

These are some of the most basic items out there, though an average cook can function without having most of them. And I haven't even mentioned the specialty items that one might find at high end stores; everything from special jugs to keep one's herbs fresh for $35 (umm, ever heard of an empty yogurt tub?!?) to $36 cake pans that bake cakes that look like 9 car trains. Okay, so maybe that last item doesn't seem so frivolous, come to thing of it. I mean, what epicurean with extra time wouldn't be tickled by the thought of making something fancy for the special little guy or girl in their life?

Nothing Says "I Love You" Like Hollandaise Sauce

...With profound apologies to all the vegans out there.
Hollandaise sauce has always been one of those recipes that I've been dying to make. Having grown up eating mostly Indian food, I've always had a fascination with continental foods. At Christmas time, we always made Eggs Benedict, and after trying to make a hollandaise at home, I now realize that the endeavor is a labour of love.
Hollandaise is a emulsification of the yolk of eggs, butter, and vinegar, with pepper and lemon sometimes adding spice and tang. It is a French sauce, and was made as early as 1651 by Francois Pierre La Varenne in his groundbreaking book Le Cuisinier Francois. However, the sauce mimics a Dutch sauce, hence the "holland" in hollandaise. It is considered one of the 5 mother sauces in French cooking.
Last Saturday, I made hollandaise sauce with artichokes, and stuffed pasta shells for an early holiday dinner for The Mixmaster. I altered an Epi recipe, and came up with what you see below. A few notes: Feel free to add a squirt or two of extra lemon for tartness; I found with the vinegar that my recipe was tart enough. Also, I used black pepper. All the recipes I found beg you to use white. But what's wrong with a little colour? I liked the flecks throughout the sauce. And finally, when rewarming the sauce, be sure to do so on low heat. Separated hollandaise can really be a downer at one's otherwise festive holiday brunch...


Recipe (for 1 1/2 cups):

2 tablespoons pure white vinegar
3 tablespoons cold water
1/4 teaspoons salt
black pepper to taste
3 large egg yolks (preferably free run)
2 sticks butter (1 cup), unsalted, cut into 1 tablespoons pieces and softened
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (optional, if you like it very tart)

• Boil vinegar, 2 T water, salt, and black pepper in medium saucepan with a heavy bottom, until reduced to about 2 tablespoons (this happens quickly).
  
• Remove from heat and add additional tablespoon of water.
• Whisk in yolks and cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until thickened (be careful not to scramble yolks). I had the heat at about 2-3 on my stove.
  
• Whisk in butter one piece at a time, you may lift pan occasionally to cool sauce.
• If adding lemon juice, do so after the pan is removed from heat. Also add salt, to taste.
  

* The egg yolks will not be fully cooked in this recipe, just so you know.

I hope you all have a lovely holidays!
viga

Croissants and Alphonsoes goes Vegetarian (!?)

Well, I'd been putting off writing this post for a while. But I'd figured that when you write a food blog, it might be a good idea to let people know that you're no longer gonna be taste-testing steaks at Tati Bistro on Harbord Street. It's been about 6 weeks since I've eaten meat like beef and chicken and pork, and I'm phasing fish out of my diet (which is a bit harder, I'll tell ya).
What would make a grrl who loved cutting into the occasional steak give up all meats? Well, about six weeks back, I saw a small animal get killed by a car on my street. I know it seems trivial, but in that moment, I was reminded of life, death, and animal suffering in a way that I'd forgotten for years. I'd been a vegetarian through most of high school and my undergrad. Remembering my reasons for abstaining from meat, or at least cutting back was quite easy.
This last weekend I went home to visit my folks in Montreal. And as my dad is vegetarian, I ate much amazing, Gujarati meatless meals. My parents are going to California to visit my aunt for the holidays, so we had our holiday gathering two weeks early. And while my family has had a healthy sense of skepticism when it comes to my new eating habits, My younger sister and her boyfriend both bought me two lovely books that I'm very excited to read. The Moosewood empire has expanded to prepared food and cookbooks, from a restaurant in Ithaca, NY. Their website can be found here. My sister bought me one of their new books, and said that she'd give me one of their others that she doesn't really use. And the present that I'm really excited about is this book, Eating Animals by Jonathan Safran Foer. It has been the hot new book in animal rights and criticism. I can't wait to crack into it.
Last week, The Mixmaster gave me yet another birthday surprise, an evening at the Bata Shoe Museum and a dinner at Vegetarian Haven. We shared the Tofu Drumsticks, which were served with a sweet and sour sauce, and I had the seitan cutlets, which was a sizzling plate. We shared a small blueberry tartlet that is easily the best vegan dessert I've ever had, and tofu ice cream. It was a sinful dinner.
So, no trying out foods with meat in it. But I might get friends to try them, and I'll still report on food culture that has to do with meat dishes. It's not like I'm just gonna be reviewing Fresh over and over now...

The Sexiest Cake Ever

Yesterday was my birthday, and The Mixmaster threw me a martini and tapas party. She did most of the cooking, making deviled eggs, feta-stuffed cherry tomatoes, and baguette pieces topped with melted brie and fig. We had home made hummus and roasted red pepper and eggplant dips, and I spiced my own olives. Family and friends brought fresh figs, cupcakes, and a variety of cheeses. It was downright decadent.
The piece de resistance of the entire evening was a "Persian Love Cake;" a gorgeous, lemon and cardamom-spiced chiffon cake with rosewater whipped cream on it that was showered with sugared rose petals and pistachios. Basically orientalism on a plate, and hopefully something that will kick start my interest in the new dissertation chapter I'm writing.
I'd made the cake the day before, and after cooling it, put it on plates and wrapped it with plastic and left it at room temperature. You can find the recipe for the cake here. I'd made a few adjustments to the Epi recipe. I increased the batter by 50%, to make a 3 layer cake. On the website, other patrons had said that the recipe made a small cake, and I had to make sure all my guests were fed. I also powdered the cardamom in my mortar and pestle, because I didn't like the idea of people biting into whole cardamom seeds. And I used slightly less rosewater, so the taste wasn't overpowering (as few of my guests don't like rosewater). You should note that even with the third layer there was too much whipped cream left over, so I'd say that whipping 2 1/4 cups double cream would be fine.
One of my sisters said that the cake "looked like a cloud," and the sugared rose petals were divine. Now that I know how to do it, I might sugar other flowers. Oh, and for those of you who are looking for organic roses for this recipe, they can be found in Toronto at Wholefoods (just don't expect the rest of the bunch to last longer than a day...). I only ended up needing one rose for the recipe.
Would I make my own birthday cake every year? Well what with all the cleaning, cooking, and then spending an hour turning into my diva self, maybe next year Betty Crocker is in order? Kidding, kidding!

Mozzarella di Bufala

After a long sunday of walking around the Colesseo and checking out churches, The Mixmaster and I found ourselves nearing dinnertime with no place to eat. While perched on a ledge at the Colesseo, surrounded by tourists, I peered into one of our guidebooks and found the perfect place. A pizzeria in Testaccio, the same neighbourhood where we partied with hundreds of queer Italians at Gorgeous I Am the night before. We dragged our tired legs and our growling bellies onto the metro system, and made our way to Pizza Remo (44 Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice).
...Only to find it closed, as many restaurants were, on this, the holy day. By now we were very hungry and my hypoglycemic self was getting a little concerned. Luckily, we found a mercato just around the corner, and decided to shop for a little picnic dinner. We were blown away by the affordable prices, particularly of the cheeses and the wines. The Mixmaster was shocked that chunks of parmigiana half the length of her arm were 1/4 of what they would cost in Toronto. We picked up two bottles of wine, one for about 3 euros, a frizzante (sparkling wine) called Primo Amore by Zonin, some salami and panna (bread) to last a few days, and then, I saw it: mozzarella di bufala. I couldn't wait to get it back to the hotel to try it.
The Campania region of Italy is famous for mozzarella di bufala, or fresh, buffalo mozzarella. These are several theories about the introduction of the water buffalo to the region, and many believe that Arab traders brought them to Italy from the Middle East. Our mozzarella di bufala came refrigerated in a bag with clear-ish fluid. It had a lightly salty taste, and was creamy, and very easy to cut. You could scoop it with a spoon even, and yes, it seemed to be perishable. It was very white, and it melted on the tongue; you barely had to chew it.
We got back to the hotel and made sandwiches of the salty, sliced salami and the mozzarella and we cut some apples. Despite her name, after a glass or two of Primo Amore, The Mixmaster got a little tipsy. Hey, it's just another night in Italy: watching news in a language we didn't understand, resting our tired feet, eating the best salami and mozzarella sandwiches known to humans, and getting drunk on frizzante.

Cornettos, Cornettos, Cornettos!

Well, having already touched on and analyzed the espresso, I thought I'd move onto the other half of the typical Italian breakfast, the cornetto. The word cornetto translates to what we call a croissant, and I'll tell you, I was thrilled to be given the license to eat one or more a day. Cornettos in Italy mostly aren't as light or flaky as some of the better ones I've had at places such as Pain Perdu here in Toronto or in some of the better boulangeries in Montreal, so I suppose less butter is used and the dough and cold butter are folded over into one another less in the process of making it. At good pasticcerias (pastry or cake shops) the variety of cornettos was often astounding. I didn't take any pictures within pasticcerias for fear of looking like a tourist (as if The Mixmaster's backpack and my map didn't give us away), but they often contained long, gleaming glass cases filled with every type of pastry imaginable: little tartlets fill with custard and topped with fresh fruit, these cunning little shell-like things that appeared to be filled with custard, and cakes, cakes, cakes.

On the average day in Rome, The Mixmaster would sleep in a little and take her time getting dressed, while I would shower more quickly and pop down to Squisito for my morning cappuccino. Then I would walk over to the corner of Via Merulana and Via dei Statuto where there was a lovely pasticceria (if I bought our cornettos from there, they were about 30 euro cents cheaper than if I got them from Squisito, and the selection was much better; we paid about 80 euro cents or about 1.50$ per cornetto). I went to the slightly stern woman at the cash, paid for our cornettos, then went and served myself at the counter. They were apricot jam-filled, custard-filled, chocolate-filled wonders, they were topped with apple slices or powdered sugar or chocolate crumbs; I'm getting nostalgic just thinking about it. The Mixmaster and I would eat our lovely pastries on the train to Pompei, or in a piazza as a mid morning snack, or in our hotel room, while we planned our day's excursions.
One little caveat: er, after several days of indulgence in white flour pasta and white flour cornettos, the average health conscious North American might wish that they had packed their psyllium husk along with their Gravol and Pepto Bismol. Apparently I hadn't been thinking! Because I didn't know what sort of help I'd get at the local pharmacia if I went in and said, "Mi scusi signore, vorrei Metamucil, per favore" (excuse me sir, I'd like Metamucil, please)!

Espresso, Plantations, Sambo Imagery, and Colonization in Reverse

The Mixmaster and I just got back from Italy, and yes, it was lovely. Everything I dreamed it would be. Over the next few weeks, I'll be posting on my trip, and places to eat (and places not to, of course) in Bella Italia. But I thought I'd begin my discussion of my whirlwind 8 days there with that quintessential Italian drink, espresso.
On day 2 of our trip, the first full day in Rome, I headed down to Squisito (the cafe just below our hotel) on Via Merulana and had my first cappuccino. We here in North America really drink coffee-flavoured steamed milk. The Starbucks "venti" is a travesty! The average cappuccino in Italy is about half the size of a regular ceramic coffee cup, and is drunk in a few minutes while chatting with the barista at the bar. Or, in my case, smiling shyly, and saying "Grazie, Signore," when I leave. The cappuccinos at Squisito (which translates to delicious in English), were 90 euro cents, and were frothy, not overly bitter, and creamy. The milk seemed to be full fat, which made for a silkier tasting beverage. And on offer was a dusting of premium quality sweetened cocoa powder. The baristas could even make heart shapes when pouring the frothed milk into the cup. You might want to check out this website to learn about all things espresso.

Espresso beans, sugar, cocoa: these are all goods that come from countries of the south (either the Caribbean, South and Central America or Africa). Edward Said, writer of the pivotal Orientalism, writes that European orientalists saw the East as a place of rejuventation, as a place where raw energy could come from that could invigorate the West. But we cannot forget the actual imported raw materials, that are turned into such highly prized food and other luxury goods made in Europe (this expands too to the highly regarded fashion industry, in which Egyptian cotton is a prized staple).



This is an image of the sugar packets at Squisito. I quickly snapped a photo, and brought one home with me, for my research. Racist imagery of black people (and others) in food is not new, of course. We here in Canada and the US have seen smiling black people feeding us everything from table syrup to rice (I'm thinking of Aunt Jemima and Uncle Ben respectively). And the less critical among up might say, "What of it? It's just a happy man in a hat!" without knowing of the history of caricatures of blacks. And they're always happy. If "moca" man wasn't smiling, we'd have to think of the conditions on his sugar plantation, Italy's (albeit limited) past forays into imperialism in such places as Libya, and our espresso might start to taste a little bitter on the tongue.
But one of the most exciting things I found in Italy was the scores of people of colour! I had thought that The Mixmaster and I would be stared at, and possibly experience racism in Italy, but Rome had more people of colour than Montreal, easily. There were sushi restaurants, and "Cinese food" (sic) places, and it made me think of a poem I read for one of my comps, Colonization in Reverse by Louise Bennett, in which the poet speaks of how the Empire "strikes back". I'm including a few stanzas here (the full poem is available online):

Wat a joyful news, miss Mattie,
I feel like me heart gwine burs
Jamaica people colonizin
Englan in Reverse

By de hundred, by de tousan
From country and from town,
By de ship-load, by de plane load
Jamica is Englan boun.

Dem a pour out a Jamaica,
Everybody future plan
Is fe get a big-time job
An settle in de mother lan.

What an islan! What a people!
Man an woman, old an young
Jus a pack dem bag an baggage
An turn history upside dung!

Yes, struggling African Italians, and Asian Italians might find it hard to challenge the hegemony of Italy's history and culture, but they speak back to the narrative of the Dolce Vita and make it their own, by adding "Cinese" food to the menu, or lapsing into Hindi when selling Venetian masks (as one vendor did with us). The Venetian South Asian we spoke with spoke Italian, some English, and Hindi. And it got me to thinking about what his life might be like. Similar to what mine was in Montreal, I guess, a riot of multiple languages and cuisines. Colonization in Reverse, indeed.
God, I wish I wasn't so jet lagged...

Croissants and Alphonsoes does Italy

Well, in two short days, The Mixmaster and I will be leaving for bella Italia! I have about a million things to do before my trip, including figuring out what a "Farfalle con pomodorino fresco, rucola e mozzarella" is, because I'll be eating it, if all goes according to plan, along with two other courses, with bottled water and wine at a "menu fissi" (fixed menu), in Florence. A few things I've learned about Italian dining, and will be careful of in my 9 days there are:

• Espresso bars charge about triple if you sit down. If you're not tired, and just need a quick caffeine fix, getting your espresso at the bar is a better option. Oh, and tipping is a must (where isn't it?).
• Italian restos often tack on hidden charges, often even charging for tap water, and bread baskets. Being smart about the bill and asking if what the cost of everything is is a good idea.
• Always be certain to clarify what size of an item you want. If you want a small slice of pizza, ask for a "piccolo," or you may pay more than you want.

Some things I'm dying to experience are the Trevi fountain in Rome, seeing David's naughty bits, eating a "bagna" boiled beef sandwich in Mercato Centrale in Florence, and going to Naples, the birthplace of the margherita pizza (a pizza with the colours of the Italian flag, for you nationalists out there...). And also sitting in cafes, writing postcards. Maybe going to St Peter's Square, and thumbing my nose at the Pope.
My goal is to record as much of my culinary experiences as I can, and report back. And hopefully, I'll have more to say than "Era squisito!" (That was delicious!).
Hope all of you out there have a lovely week and a half.

Food Memory, and Two Indian Salads

A few weeks ago I had made a minor Indian feast, and thought that a katchoombar, or onion salad, might go well with it. I whipped one up quickly. The interesting thing is, I've never been given the recipe. No one ever said to me, "You take half an onion..." and so on.
This got me thinking of all the things that I know how to cook, some of which I've still not made yet, just by watching my Mom do so for years. Food memory, I call it. Just this last year, I made stuffing from scratch for the first time, because the memory of being in my parents' kitchen, holiday season after holiday season, watching my Mom do so had practically coded the recipe into my DNA. I also moved to Toronto with her homemade chicken soup recipe embedded in my brain. And food memory continues on as an adult. I now know how to make an Anglo-Indian curry, having watched the Mixmaster do so over and over.
The thing about food memory is that it is not static, it is fluid, it adapts with the times, and tastes. I've tweaked a recipe or two, made them healthier, or modified them. And another thing about food memory is that it is meant for sharing. So my mom's raita recipe is happily passed along to a friend, who can pass it along to another friend.
Finally, here are two simple Indian salad recipes, a Raita and a Katchoombar. The recipes are imprecise because, as with many food memory items, you just eyeball as you go along. Though if you have any serious concerns, please do write a comment. The raita is often used as a supplement for very fiery dishes to cool the tongue, just so you know.

Raita:
Take 1/3 of an english cucumber. Peel and grate. Discard peels and take grated bits and squeeze out water; place in a small bowl. Take about 1/2 to 1/3 of a tub of yoghurt, place in a bowl, and beat with a fork until smooth. Add cucumber, salt to taste, and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste. Mix well. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Katchoombar:
Take half of a white onion and cut into thin slices. Place in a small serving bowl. Add 1/3 of a grated carrot. Mix. Add a good long squeeze of apple cider vinegar. Add salt, pepper, and paprika to taste. Mix with a fork. Can be made an hour or two before serving.

A Sunday Trip To The Best Croissants in Town

I've been working quite intensely at a summer job the last few weeks, so when I have the odd day off, it's much appreciated. A week or two ago, the Mixmaster and I made this lovely wilted greens dish, along with a whole wheat meat sauce and spinach lasagna. The escarole is a rather quick dish to make, and substitutions can be made; I didn't have a red onion, so I used white, and while eating it, I mused at how lovely a scattering of toasting of pine nuts would taste over it.
Last week, I yet again had one day off on Sunday, and thought heading over to Pain Perdu for their mouth watering croissants would be great. I've heard that Bonjour Brioche (812 Queen Street East) has a pretty good croissant too, but for my money, PP's croissants are the best in town. As you bite into one, a small shower of pastry flakes will dust your shirt, as they should. It tastes mildly of butter and bread and yeast and nothing else. No preservatives. The croissants are obviously lovingly and meticulously made over the course of a day, by folding chilled butter and dough mixture over and over, quite patiently. Don't believe how time consuming croissant making is? Watch this long-ish video, and you'll get the drift...

Pain Perdu's croissants are perfect to grab for a stroll down St. Clair West, and there's even a little bench outside PP, for you to sit down and people watch while eating your pastry. And if plain croissants are a little ennuyeux for you, try some of their other viennoiserie.
Croissants were said to have been created in 1686 in a rather interesting and mythic story. As the story goes, a baker working late in Budapest, Hungary heard an alarming noise and alerted the city officials. It seems that the Turkish army was tunneling under the cities walls, and this lone baker saved the day. He was asked if he wanted anything, and all he asked is that he could make a special pastry to commemorate the occasion- in the shape of the Islamic crescent.
Neat little tale, eh? Too bad it's all a zenophobic myth. There's no documented proof of the thwarted invasion in history books, and croissants recipes were first found in France around 1850.